Kamis, 14 Juli 2011

tilt shift maker

This tutorial has been produced using Photoshop CS2 on a PC.
If you want to learn new techniques on how to take better pictures, a great place to start is online. Search the internet for sites that have tutorials and how to articles on the subject. Just like now you can play online games you can also learn online all about how to become a better photographer and take better pictures.

Step 1: Photo Selection

When choosing a photograph for the tilt-shift effect, bear in mind that you want to give the impression of a miniature model. Miniature models are usually viewed from above so try and choose a photo with an elevated viewpoint. Buildings, roads, traffic and railways are excellent choices but make sure there is a reasonable wide angle of view.
For this tilt-shift photography Photoshop tutorial, we are using a picture of Times Square during a typical day:
Step 1: Photo Selection
Even before the tilt-shift effect has been applied, it's not too hard to imagine the scene as if it were a model.
To find an appropriate image, we suggest you browse through the flickr tilt-shift fakes pool. Pay attention to licensing terms though - if you are going to manipulate and display your work it will need to be released under the Creative Commons licence.

Step 2. Enter Quick Mask Mode

Open the image in Photoshop and enter Quick Mask Mode by pressing Q on the keyboard, or select the Quick Mask icon as shown in the Tool Palette below:
Step 2. Enter Quick Mask Mode

Step 3. Choose Gradient Tool

Choose the Gradient Tool by pressing G on the keyboard, or select the Gradient Tool icon. Be sure to choose the Reflected Gradient option (the fourth icon along before the Mode drop-down).
Step 3. Choose Gradient Tool

Step 4. Draw A Line

Draw a vertical line; the start point will be the centre of the in-focus area, and the end will be where the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus is completed. This step, and the subsequent two steps, will need a fair degree of trial and error. If you look closely at the image below, you will see the line has been drawn from the back door of the silver car up to just under the word Hollywood beneath the street lamp.
Step 4. Draw A Line
Once you release the mouse button the area of focus will appear as a red band across the image, as shown in the next step.

Step 5. View Mask Area

Before progressing, review the position of the red mask. The middle of the mask is where the in-focus area will be, gradually losing focus towards the edges. Note the out-of-focus effect is yet to be applied.
Step 5. View Mask Area

Step 6. Return To Standard Mode

Press Q on the keyboard to exit Quick Mask Mode and return to Standard Mode, or press the icon on the Tool Palette as shown below. The area to apply the focus effect to will be surrounded by the "marching ants" selection lines:
Step 6. Return To Standard Mode

Hosting

We do all the research for giving you best web hosting deals! Be it dedicated hosting or virtual private server for your website, we cover it all!

Step 7. Open Lens Blur Interface

Choose Filter > Blur > Lens Blur:
Step 7. Open Lens Blur Interface

Step 8. Review Effect And Tweak Settings

Hopefully, you will now see a pleasing focus effect. The Photoshop default settings for Lens Blur seem to work well, but experiment with them to improve the effect. If you are unhappy with the position of the focus area, go back to Step 4 and try drawing a line in a different place or with a different centre of focus.
Step 8. Review Effect And Tweak Settings

Step 9. Exit Lens Blur Interface

Assuming you were happy with the image preview in Step 8, click OK to accept the settings:
Step 9. Exit Lens Blur Interface

Step 10. Remove Selection Boundary

Press CTRL-D on the keyboard to remove the "marching ants" selection bounday:
Step 10. Remove Selection Boundary

Step 11. Open Hue/Saturation Adjustment Interface

You may want to boost the colour saturation, to improve the effect. Remember that model scenery is often brightly painted so enhancing the saturation helps trick the eye. Press CTRL-U on the keyboard or select Image > Adjustments > Hue/Saturation:
Step 11. Open Saturation Adjustment Interface

Step 12. Boost Saturation

In this example, we boost the Master saturation to +40.
Step 12. Boost Saturation

Step 13. Open Curves Adjustment Interface

It may help to increase the contrast of the image slightly using the Curves adjustment. Press CTRL-M on the keyboard or select Image > Adjustments > Curves:
Step 13. Open Curves Adjustment Interface

Step 14. Adjust Curves

In this example we use a very small S-shaped curve to increase contrast. Take care not to over-do this step; in fact, it may not be necessary at all.
Step 14. Adjust Curves

Step 15. Finished

Here's the finished image.
Step 15. Finished

Tilt-shift photography

Tilt-shift photography



"Tilt-shift photography" refers to the use of camera movements on small- and medium-format cameras, and sometimes specifically refers to the use of tilt for selective focus, often for simulating a miniature scene. Sometimes the term is used when the shallow depth of field is simulated with digital postprocessing; the name may derive from the tilt-shift lens normally required when the effect is produced optically.
"Tilt-shift" actually encompasses two different types of movements: rotation of the lens plane relative to the image plane, called tilt, and movement of the lens parallel to the image plane, called shift. Tilt is used to control the orientation of the plane of focus (PoF), and hence the part of an image that appears sharp; it makes use of the Scheimpflug principle. Shift is used to adjust the position of the subject in the image area without moving the camera back; this is often helpful in avoiding the convergence of parallel lines, as when photographing tall buildings.

History and use

Movements have been available on view cameras since the early days of photography; they have been available on smaller-format cameras since the early 1960s, usually by means of special lenses or adapters. Nikon introduced a lens providing shift movements for their 35 mm SLR cameras in 1962,[1] and Canon introduced a lens that provided both tilt and shift movements in 1973;[2] many other manufacturers soon followed suit. Canon and Nikon each currently offer several lenses that provide both movements. Such lenses are frequently used in architectural photography to control perspective, and in landscape photography to get an entire scene sharp.
Some photographers have popularized the use of tilt for selective focus in applications such as portrait photography. The selective focus that can be achieved by tilting the plane of focus is often compelling because the effect is different from that to which many viewers have become accustomed. Walter Iooss Jr. of Sports Illustrated, Vincent Laforet, Ben Thomas, and many other photographers have images using this technique on their web sites.

Camera movements

Tilt

24 mm lens that tilts (as seen above) as well as shifts
A camera lens can provide sharp focus on only a single plane. Without tilt, the image plane (containing the film or image sensor), the lens plane, and the plane of focus are parallel, and are perpendicular to the lens axis; objects in sharp focus are all at the same distance from the camera. When the lens plane is tilted relative to the image plane, the plane of focus (PoF) is at an angle to the image plane, and objects at different distances from the camera can all be sharply focused if they lie in the same plane. With the lens tilted, the image plane, lens plane, and PoF intersect at a common line;[3][4] this behavior has become known as the Scheimpflug principle. When focus is adjusted with a tilted lens, the PoF rotates about an axis at the intersection of the lens's front focal plane and a plane through the center of the lens parallel to the image plane; the tilt determines the distance from the axis of rotation to the center of the lens, and the focus determines the angle of the PoF with the image plane. In combination, the tilt and focus determine the position of the PoF.










Using tilt changes the shape of the depth of field (DoF). When the lens and image planes are parallel, the DoF extends between parallel planes on either side of the PoF. With tilt or swing, the DoF is wedge shaped, with the apex of the wedge near the camera, as shown in Figure 5 in the Scheimpflug principle article. The DoF is zero at the apex, remains shallow at the edge of the lens's field of view, and increases with distance from the camera. For a given position of the PoF, the angle between the planes that define the near and far limits of DoF (i.e., the angular DoF) increases with lens f-number; for a given f-number and angle of the PoF, the angular DoF decreases with increasing tilt. When it is desired to have an entire scene sharp, as in landscape photography, the best results are often achieved with a relatively small amount of tilt. When the objective is selective focus, a large amount of tilt can be used to give a very small angular DoF; however, the tilt fixes the position of the PoF rotation axis, so if tilt is used to control the DoF, it may not be possible to also have the PoF pass through all desired points.
View camera users usually distinguish between rotating the lens about a horizontal axis (tilt), and rotation about a vertical axis (swing); small- and medium-format camera users often refer to either rotation as "tilt".

[edit] Shift

In a subject plane parallel to the image plane, parallel lines in the subject remain parallel in the image. If the image plane is not parallel to the subject, as when pointing a camera up to photograph a tall building, parallel lines converge, and the result sometimes appears unnatural, such as a building that appears to be leaning backwards.
Shift is a displacement of the lens parallel to the image plane that allows adjusting the position of the subject in the image area without moving the camera back; in effect the camera can be aimed with the shift movement.[5] Shift can be used to keep the image plane (and thus focus) parallel to the subject; it can be used to photograph a tall building while keeping the sides of the building parallel. The lens can also be shifted in the opposite direction and the camera tilted up to accentuate the convergence for artistic effect.
Shifting a lens allows different portions of the image circle to be cast onto the image plane, similar to cropping an area along the edge of an image.
Again, view camera users usually distinguish between vertical movements (rise and fall) and lateral movements (shift or cross), while small- and medium-format users often refer to both types of movements as "shift".

[edit] Lens image circle

Whereas the image circle of a standard lens usually just covers the image frame, a lens that provides tilt or shift must allow for displacement of the lens axis from the center of the image frame, and consequently requires a larger image circle than a standard lens of the same focal length.

[edit] Applying camera movements

Use of lens shift to control distortion
On a view camera, the tilt and shift movements are inherent in the camera, and many view cameras allow a considerable range of adjustment of both the lens and the camera back. Applying movements on a small- or medium-format camera usually requires a tilt-shift lens or perspective control lens. The former allows tilt, shift, or both; the latter allows only shift. With a tilt-shift lens, adjustments are available only for the lens, and the range is usually more limited.
Tilt-shift and perspective-control lenses are available for many SLR cameras, but most are far more expensive than comparable lenses without movements. The Lensbaby SLR lens is a low-cost alternative for providing tilt and swing for many SLR cameras, although the effect is somewhat different from that of the lenses just described. Because of the simple optical design, there is significant curvature of field,[6] and sharp focus is limited to a region near the lens axis. Consequently, the Lensbaby's primary application is selective focus and "toy camera"–style photography.
It is also possible to construct a tilt-shift lens of sorts, as described in the linked article by Dennison Bertram.

[edit] Selective focus

Selective focus can be used to direct the viewer's attention to a small part of the image while de-emphasizing other parts.
With tilt, the effect is different from that obtained by using a large f-number without tilt. With a regular camera, the PoF and the DoF are perpendicular to the line of sight; with tilt, the PoF can be almost parallel to the line of sight, and the DoF can be very narrow but extend to infinity. Thus parts of a scene at greatly different distances from the camera can be rendered sharp, and selective focus can be given to different parts of a scene at the same distance from the camera.[7]
With tilt, the depth of field is wedge shaped. As noted above under Tilt, using a large amount of tilt and a small f-number gives a small angular DoF. This can be useful if the objective is to provide selective focus to different objects at essentially the same distance from the camera. But in many cases, effective use of tilt for selective focus requires a careful choice of what is sharp as well as what is unsharp, as Vincent Laforet has noted.[8] Because the tilt also affects the position of the PoF, it may not be possible to use a large amount of tilt and have the PoF pass through all desired points. This may not be a problem if only one point is to be sharp; for example, if it is desired to emphasize one building in a row of buildings, the tilt and f-number can be used to control the width of the sharp area, and the focus used to determine which building is sharp. But if it is desired to have two or more points sharp (for example, two people at different distances from the camera), the PoF must include both points, and it usually is not possible to achieve this while also using the tilt to control DoF.
Selective focus using tilt appears in motion pictures such as Minority Report, (2002). Director of photography Janusz Kamiński says he prefers using tilt-shift lenses to digital post-production as too much digital can detract and "It doesn’t look organic."[9]

[edit] Miniature faking

Miniature simulation using digital postprocessing
Selective focus via tilt is often used to simulate a miniature scene,[10][11] though as noted above, the effect is somewhat different from the shallow DoF in close-up photography of miniature subjects.[12] Many such images are described as employing "tilt-shift", but the term is something of a misnomer because shift is seldom involved and is usually unrelated to the effect produced. The term may derive from the tilt-shift lens normally required when the effect is produced optically.
Basic digital postprocessing techniques can give results similar to those achieved with tilt, and afford greater flexibility, such as choosing the region that is sharp and the amount of blur for the unsharp regions. Moreover, these choices can be made after the photograph is taken. One advanced technique, Smallgantics, is used for motion-pictures; it was first seen in the 2006 Thom Yorke music video Harrowdown Hill, directed by Chel White. Artist Olivo Barbieri is well known for his miniature-faking stills in the 1990s.

 

 


 

keunikan dari sebuah photo















Rabu, 13 Juli 2011

Canon PowerShot G12 Worth Upgrade?

Canon PowerShot G12 Worth Upgrade?

October 9th, 2010
If you don’t own a G-series camera already, then the G12 is a great camera to start with due to its functionality which is hard to beat. However, as someone that owns a G11, I see no need to upgrade at this time due to the limited improvements between the two. I am still looking for a 1080P video mode that is actually usable and not just an add on feature that doesn’t work very well regarding zoom, etc. I do like some of the added features of the G12.
But if Canon wants to keep up with the competition, the next G-series camera better take a larger leap in improvements and not just a few tweaks. They’re recycling the lens and they shouldn’t have. The G12 should have had a higher quality (optically) F2.0 lens to better compete and be a real “upgrade” from the previous model. The swivel LCD and added video mode are fine, but they’ve fallen into the same habit most makers do these days where each incarnation of a camera is just a slight upgrade of a feature or two instead of a truly updated model ….. Canon PowerShot G12 Worth Upgrade? full article.

Nikon Coolpix P7000 Real Canon G-Type Competitor

October 9th, 2010
I’ve been a Nikon SLR/DSRL shooter for my entire professional career (25+years), but I’ve also been a fan of the Canon G series digital cameras, having owned a G2, G5, G9 and most recently a G11. Nikon just didn’t make a compact camera that appealed to me until the Nikon P7000. Nikon P7000 is a great effort for first attempt to make a Canon G-type competitor.
The Good:
The color is spot-on under very challenging conditions. The images are rich, detailed and the noise levels are very good for a compact camera. The ergonomics are fantastic, I used to accidentally press buttons on the back of the Canon G11 with my right thumb, the P7000 has a rubber thumb rest and finger grip on the body, making it very comfortable to use. The multi-function dial allows for easy access to settings like ISO, WB, Image Quality, Bracketing and other settings.
I like the pop up/push down flash, rather than having to navigate a menu to turn flash on and off. The camera works great with Nikon SB800 and SB900 strobes as well as the SU800 remote commander and of course Nikon TTL cords. I’ve successfully synced a SB900 strobe via Pocket Wizards at manual shutter speeds up to 1/1000, I like the semi-automatic ISO which can be set to use 100-200, 100-200-400. Very handy feature. In program mode, the camera will drop the shutter speed all the way down to 1/30 with flash without having to go into night portrait mode …. Nikon Coolpix P7000 Real Canon G-Type Competitor full article.

Nikon D7000 vs. Canon 60D

October 4th, 2010
I first saw the Nikon D7000 I was thinking like everybody else was, this camera has a lot of good stuff. But when I really looked closely, well I did not see much different than the 60D at all. Could somebody shine some light on this for me to show me what are the real huge differences?
Now when I look down this list comparing. I really do not see a huge difference. They both have different strong points which do not directly compete with each other. It seems the Nikon is a hair better for maybe sports shooting (though Canon never focused on having as many AF points as Nikon, though in this case they have the same number of cross type AF points) and the Canon is a slight bit better for movie shooting.
The Nikon is strutting a magnesium body which is know is like flashing a gold bracelet to a silver one, but in all practical purposes, they weigh about the same with the Nikon being like a 0.1 lbs more and the Canon being slightly bigger in the hand (by its dimensions) … Nikon D7000 vs. Canon 60D full article.

Selasa, 12 Juli 2011

tips auto fokus

Tips auto fokus

by Enche on February 8, 2011
Fokus yang akurat penting untuk mendapatkan hasil foto yang tajam. Foto yang fokusnya melenceng sulit atau hampir tidak bisa diperbaiki.
Di jaman dulu, hanya ada manual fokus. Manual fokus untuk kamera digital SLR agak sulit karena banyak kamera yang memiliki jendela bidik kecil dan kurang terang. Tapi untunglah kamera digital SLR modern memiliki auto fokus.
Meski demikian, kita harus menentukan moda auto fokus yang tepat supaya gambar yang dihasilkan tajam dan konsisten.
Berikut ini adalah beberapa mode auto fokus yang biasa ditemui di kamera DSLR:
AF-S atau single point focus (Nikon) atau One Shot (Canon)
Mode ini cukup sederhana, Anda memilih satu titik fokus, kemudian tekan setengah tombol shutter. Kamera akan mengunci titik fokusnya. Meskipun objek foto bergerak, fokus tetap tidak berubah.
Mode ini khusus untuk objek foto yang tidak bergerak, seperti pemandangan, foto model, produk dan sebagainya. Hati-hati dalam memakai mode ini karena bila objek foto bergerak maka fokus tidak akurat lagi.
AF-C atau Continuous auto focus (Nikon) atau AI Servo (Canon)
Mode ini kebalikan dengan mode yang pertama diatas. Saat auto fokus diaktifkan dengan menekan tombol shutter setengah penuh, kamera akan mengikuti gerak objek foto yang bergerak. Mode ini cocok untuk fotografi olahraga, burung, dan benda yang bergerak lainnya.
Cara kerjanya kurang lebih adalah kamera memprediksi gerakan objek foto dan kemudian memindahkan titik fokus sesuai yang diprediksikan. Apa yang perlu kita lakukan hanya terus menekan tombol shutter setengah penuh dan mengikuti objek fotonya.
Di kamera DSLR yang canggih, biasanya mode ini bisa dimodifikasi secara khusus tergantung dengan keinginan dan pergerakan objek foto.
AF-A atau AI-Focus
Mode auto fokus ini adalah mode campuran antara mode auto fokus single shot dan continuous servo. Bila kamera mendeteksi objek foto tidak bergerak, maka otomatis akan bersifat seperti auto fokus single shot, tapi kalau kamera mendeteksi objek foto bergerak, maka akan otomatis memprediksi letak dan mengikuti objek foto.
Mode ini ideal untuk objek foto yang tidak bergerak namun akan segera bergerak. Untuk objek yang tidak bergerak atau sedang bergerak, lebih baik langsung mengunakan auto fokus single shot atau continuous daripada mode otomatis ini.

Memilih titik fokus

9 titik auto fokus yang biasanya dijumpai di kamera DSLR Canon
9 titik auto fokus yang biasanya dijumpai di kamera DSLR Canon
Selain mode auto fokus diatas, kamera digital SLR juga memungkinkan kita memilih titik fokus yang dikehendaki, ataupun membiarkan kamera memilih titik fokus.
Bila kita memilih kamera yang menentukan titik fokus untuk kita, biasanya kamera akan berusaha mendeteksi muka seseorang (face detection) atau memilih objek terdekat dengan kamera.
Manual fokus
Meskipun di era kamera digital SLR, fungsi manual fokus sudah banyak ditinggalkan, namun ada beberapa kondisi dimana manual fokus mutlak atau dianjurkan untuk dipakai.
Manual fokus lebih baik untuk foto makro / close up benda-benda kecil, seperti serangga, bunga dan sebagainya. Hal ini disebabkan karena auto fokus biasanya gagal mendeteksi objek yang terlalu dekat dan objek dengan lensa dan bila objek foto memiliki kontras yang rendah.
Beberapa tahun terakhir ini, banyak kamera digital SLR yang telah memiliki fitur live view, dimana kita bisa melihat langsung objek foto melalui layar LCD. Kita juga bisa mengunakan tombol zoom untuk membesarkan gambar di LCD. Mengunakan fitur ini dengan manual fokus saat kamera didudukan di atas tripod bisa menghasilkan foto dengan auto fokus yang sangat akurat.
Tips auto fokus
Supaya fokus foto selalu tepat sasaran, berikut tips-tips yang mungkin bisa membantu:
  1. Gunakan titik fokus tengah terutama bila Anda memiliki kamera digital SLR pemula atau kamera yang sudah berumur. Titik fokus tengah adalah titik fokus yang paling sensitif dan akurat.
  2. Tekan tombol shutter setengah penuh untuk mengunci fokus, kemudian Anda bisa merekomposisikan foto dengan menggeser kamera ke kiri atau ke kanan.
  3. Nyalakan lampu bantu auto fokus (AF Assist Lamp) untuk membantu auto fokus di kondisi cahaya yang gelap.
  4. Auto fokus sering gagal saat kita mencoba untuk fokus ke objek foto yang kurang kontras. Maka dari itu, cari bagian yang kontras atau ujung objek. Kemudian kunci fokus dengan menekan tombol setengah penuh dan rekomposisikan foto dengan menggeser kamera bila perlu.
  5. Lihat konfirmasi fokus di dalam jendela bidik, biasanya berupa bulatan hijau atau kotak hijau. Bila sudah muncul, itu berarti bahwa fokus sudah terkunci sempurna. Ini berlaku juga ketika mengunakan manual fokus.
  6. Gunakan fitur live view untuk membesarkan objek foto sehingga fokus menjadi sangat akurat, tapi jangan lupa memakai tripod saat mengunakan metode ini.

the rule of third

The importance of focus and quick tips on how to get it right

The importance of focus and quick tips on how to get it right

// July 2nd, 2008
Focus in photography is about a lot more than simply sharpness or being able to see what you are looking at. Focus can enhance a subject by making it stand out from or blend into its surroundings, focus can draw you in, and the right focus can create an emotional connection with the viewer. No matter what style of photography you enjoy, focus can work for you or against you.

Portraits

The number one rule when shooting portraits of people or animals is this: focus on the eyes. (There are always exceptions—like all rules. But really, focus on the eyes.) By virtue of millions of years of evolution, human beings are hard-wired to very quickly recognize and respond to faces. (It’s definitely an important survival trait in my family to recognize when someone is angry at you, for example.)
Sure, you could focus on the tip of the nose or the ears if you like (which might work really well in some dog photos…) but nothing draws in a viewer to a portrait like sharply focused eyes and a blurred background.
How do you do it? Use a large aperture (f/2.8 or lower if possible), longish focal length (50mm and up), and get as close as you can.

Landscapes/architectural

Landscapes, photographs of nature or the environment around you, usually aim to capture as much of the view as sharply focused as possible. The idea is to give the viewer a sense of size, of scale. A buffet of sights, a feast for the eyes. Landscape photographers often avail themselves of a little knowledge of hyperfocal distances to keep everything in the scene in perfect focus, from the closest flower to the furthest cloud.
When everything in a photograph is in focus, the viewer’s eye is drawn first to important bold elements in the composition such as a strong line, large blocks of color, and rule of thirds intersection points. From there, the viewer wanders through the photograph like a virtual traveler, exploring every nook and cranny and taking everything in.
In the photo above, for instance, my eye goes first to the bottom of the trail and follows it up to the cloud and then over the rolling curve of the ridge to the blue sky above.
How do you do it? Use as small an aperture as you can (f/11 or higher), focus on something in the middle distance (or use the hyperfocal distance), and, if possible, use a tripod. Very tiny apertures (f/11, f/16, f/22) lead to longer shutter speed so tripods are often necessary for maximum sharpness.

Macros

Macros are the ultimate close-ups. Often focusing on a single, tiny subject, macros require special techniques and a lot of patience to get right. I don’t have any numbers to back this up, but I’d bet money that the rate of mental illness is higher among macro photographers than the rest of the photography population.
Macros are well-known for their ability to isolate and enlarge a single subject that often goes unnoticed to the naked eye. They’re also characterized by extremely shallow depths of field (sometimes just millimeters).

The shallow depth of field is usually a consequence of the very short working distances between the camera and the subject often required of macros (just inches). Counter-intuitively, with macro photography it is a constant struggle to increase the depth of field as much as possible so that the right amount of the subject is in focus.
How do you do it? Attach your favorite macro lens or use the macro mode on your camera, get as close as you can focus, and use the smallest aperture you can (f/8, f/11 or higher). Small apertures and close working distances sometimes mean low light as well so you may need to bring extra light, a tripod, and/or use a higher ISO setting.

Environmental portraits

These types of photographs are a blend of standard portraiture and landscape photography. The idea is that a portrait subject is shown in surroundings that tell the viewer something about that person. There are many different approaches to this type of photography but in general, since the person is primary subject, the person should always be in focus. Whether you keep the background in focus (and how much) depends a lot on the composition of the photo, whether the background is cluttered or clean, and how much emphasis you want to place on each (the subject vs. the environment).
Since these usually aren’t close-up portraits (head shots), focusing strictly on the eyes isn’t as important.
How do you do it? Use a medium aperture (f/4, f/5.6, f/8), a medium to wide focal length to include some background, and a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the portrait subject.

Digital camera focus tips


Digital camera focus tips

Focus screenFocus mode

Many digital cameras are set to default to focus continually or have another focus mode that causes the camera to automatically select the main area tha will be focused in a scene. These modes can be unreliable, resulting in poorly focused, soft looking images.
For optimal results for the vast majority of scenes, switch to a single or center area focus mode and lock focus where you want it.

Focus difficulties

Compact digital cameras may have difficulty focusing when there is low contrast in a scene. If you fail to achieve focus taking photos in low-light or low-contrast situations, lock focus and exposure on something of equal distance which has contrast. Depress the shutter-release button half-way, recompose your shot and then fully depress the button.
For a comprehensive list of causes of focus difficulties and their solutions, check out the Autofocus problems and solutions article.

Prefocus

Anticipate the moment by prefocusing before photographing a fast moving subject. Prefocus on an object of equal distance as the subject will be when it moves in front of you. Keep the shutter button pressed halfway as you track the subject, then press it down fully when ready to take the shot.
If your camera lets you manually focus, or has AF Lock to keep focus locked, use either if the shooting distance remains the same for subsequent photos.

In low light, shoot at the widest angle

When taking photos in low light, shoot at the widest angle. In other words, don’t use the zoom in difficult lighting. The aperture is largest at the wide end of a zoom, and let’s in more light to the camera. If you need to get close to a subject, either “zoom with your feet” or crop the image when editing.